Visit to the Haramain: Nawab Siddiq Hasan Khan
Salam. We made mention of Allamah Ibn Taymiyyah and his advice on the etiquettes of visiting Madinah the Illuminated. I thought I would add to this what Nawab Siddiq Hasan Khan (he scholarly ruler of Bhopal) recorded after his gruelling journey to the Hijaz. He said regarding his setting sights upon the Kabah [perhaps for the first time?] (p. 165):
From the first gaze which fell upon the beauty of the ‘Kabah al-Mukarramah’ we forgot the tribulations of the journey and all of its difficulties, as if we had not had any complaints en route. Such is the affair of every one who is longing and is truthful. How could it not be when the radiant Kabah- Allah increase it in light and splendour- is a ruby like a jewel adorning the vision of of the eyes of the righteous, clear to those looking at its esteemed black garment.
After we finished the Saiee between al-Safa and al-Marwah, we saw that we should complete the night next to the Kabah. We stayed next to it till Fajr spending it in Tahajjud, supplication and seeking forgiveness till dawn. We offered the morning prayer with the first congregation of the Shafi’s, and then returned back to our lodging, shaved our heads and wore stitched clothing…
We stayed in Makka waiting for the Hajj because the time for the journey to Madinah had passed due to the lateness of our ships arrival. If it had not been for this, we would have set out and travelled to the Masjid al-Nabawi, and have the good fortune of greeting the purifying, illuminated Ahmadi grave.
Nawab Siddiq completed his Hajj, and was then finally able to undertake the journey to Madinah. Describing his stay he said (p.167):
It happened that I stayed in this blessed city for a week. I was able to visit the Masjid al-Nabawi, and greet the illuminated resting place of al-Mustafa and his companions, visit his Baqi, the martyrs of Uhud, not least the master of the martyrs (Sayyid al-Shuhada) Hamza- Allah Most High be pleased with him- and other masjids and wells. Especially the Masjid of Quba in the transmitted manner according to the sunnah. The city of Madinah is full of different types of blessing, and traces (athar) of mercy and lights from divine manifestations (tajalliyat). How (could this not be) when the divine lights and Prophetic blessings are exuding from its walls, and tranquility and dignity (waqar) descend at all times times upon its buildings.
Note: The above is a rough draft, and is a translation of the meaning.